How Can I Check Brake Pads Myself?

Brake pads wear with use, increasing stopping distance and risking rotor damage if neglected. Checking pad condition regularly can prevent costly repairs. This guide covers tools, safety, and step-by-step inspection methods – both quick checks through the wheel and detailed checks with the wheel removed – plus how to measure pad thickness, signs of wear to watch for, and recommended inspection intervals.

A bright flashlight or work light, and a small mirror (or phone camera) to see behind the caliper if needed. A ruler or brake-pad gauge (feelertype or caliper tool) helps measure thickness.

In addition, you will need a lug wrench or impact gun to loosen lug nuts, a floor jack and jack stands, and possibly a torx/Allen socket if your vehicle has hubcaps. (Optional: a popsicle stick or wooden dowel can be used as a simple gauge.)

Gloves and safety glasses to protect from brake dust and debris. A mask is advisable if cleaning dust. Also keep a set of wheel chocks to secure the vehicle during any lifting.

Park on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and chock at least one rear wheel before lifting. Never rely on a jack alone – always support the car on properly rated jack stands before getting under or working near the wheels.

Brakes can become extremely hot after driving. Allow them to cool to avoid burns. When hot, do not touch rotors or pads (they’re very hot!) as noted in the warning.

Wear gloves and eye protection. Brake dust may contain asbestos or other irritants, so avoid blowing it into the air. Use a damp cloth or brake cleaner to wipe parts if needed. Ensure adequate ventilation if indoors.

Follow proper procedures (loosening lug nuts only when wheels touch ground, etc.). If unsure, consult a service manual. Always remove jewelry and secure loose clothing to avoid snagging on moving parts.

Some cars have wheels or hubcaps that let you see the brake rotor and outer pad without removing the wheel. If your wheels have large openings (or if you remove the wheel center cap), shine a flashlight onto the inside of the wheel.

Compare the visible pad’s friction material to its metal backing plate. If the friction part is very thin – for example, less than about 1/4 inch (6 mm) – the pads are worn and should be replaced. A simple rule is: if the pad material is as thin as (or thinner than) the backing plate, it’s time for new pads.

Visible deep grooves or scoring on the rotor often mean the pads have worn into the disc. Blue or discolored spots on the rotor indicate overheating. These signs suggest pads (and possibly the rotor) need service.

Many pads have built-in metal tabs that squeal when the pad wears low. If you hear a high-pitched squeal during braking (which stops when the brakes are applied), it means the pads are nearly worn through. Some vehicles also have electronic wear sensors; if the sensor is visible and touching (or nearly touching) the rotor, replace the pads.

If you can get a straight object (wood stick, screw, or gauge) next to the pad, you can estimate thickness. For example, slide a popsicle stick between the rotor and pad backing and mark the stick at the pad’s outer face. Then measure from that mark to the end of the backing plate – it should be several millimeters. (If only ~3–5 mm of pad material remains beyond the backing, replacement is likely overdue.)

As with any wheel-off job, park on level ground, set the parking brake, chock the opposite wheels, and loosen the wheel’s lug nuts before jacking up the car. Support the vehicle securely on jack stands before removing the wheel.

Take off the wheel to fully expose the brake caliper, rotor, and pads. This lets you inspect both sides of the brake pad (inner and outer) and the rotor surface up close.

With the wheel off you can see and feel both pads on the caliper. Look at the friction material (the part that presses against the rotor). If it looks very thin (on either side), replacement is needed. As a rule, if either pad is less than about 3–4 mm thick, plan to replace both pads.

The inner and outer pads should wear roughly the same. If one pad is much thinner, the caliper may be binding or sticking. Uneven wear can cause the car to pull to one side under braking. (In that case, the caliper or slide pins may need servicing.)

Look at the rotor surface for deep grooves, cracks, warpage or corrosion. Fine ridges are normal, but deep score lines mean the pads are embedding material in the rotor. Blue streaks or golden tint on the rotor metal indicate overheating. If the rotor is badly scored or warped, it may need resurfacing or replacement when you replace the pads.

Check that the caliper moves freely on its pins. Clean and lubricate any slide pins if rusty. Verify that clips, shims, and the pad’s steel backing plate are not cracked or broken. Also ensure no brake fluid is leaking.

For an accurate check, use a caliper or feeler gauge. Slide the tool into the caliper opening so it contacts the pad surface. Read the thickness of only the friction material (not counting the steel backing plate).

Brand-new pads are typically around 10–12 mm thick. Most manufacturers recommend replacing pads by the time the friction material is only ~3 mm (about 1/8 inch) thick. In practice, many mechanics advise replacing when pads reach about 3–4 mm.

If you don’t have a tool, a marked stick can serve as a gauge. For example, press a flat screwdriver or stick against the rotor and make a mark at the pad surface. Then measure from that mark to the back of the pad. Subtract the backing-plate thickness to estimate the friction depth. If only a few millimeters of material remain, replace the pads.

Remember to measure or gauge both inner and outer pads. You only need to measure one if they appear the same, but if one pad is smaller, measure that one. Either way, brake pads should be replaced in axle-sets (both front pads or both rear pads together) for even braking.

A squeal or chirp when applying the brakes usually means the wear indicator tab is contacting the rotor. A grinding noise means the pad material is gone and the metal backing plate is grinding on the rotor – a critical sign pads must be changed immediately.

If stopping distance increases, the pedal feels spongy or goes lower than usual, or you need to press harder to brake, the pads may be thin. (Air in brake lines or low fluid can also cause these symptoms, but worn pads are a common culprit.)

Pulsation or shaking through the pedal or steering wheel during braking can indicate warped rotors or uneven pad wear. Similarly, if the car pulls to one side under braking, check for uneven pad thickness or a sticking caliper.

Visually, any pad with less than ~6 mm of friction (about ¼ inch) should be replaced soon. Some pads have painted edges or slots that serve as visual gauges; once the friction layer is nearly even with those features, it’s time for new pads.

Deep grooves, cracks, or rust on the rotor surface suggest damage. Rotors glazed to a shiny finish can also reduce braking, and bluing means overheating. All these point to worn pads or other brake issues.

If you see shiny spots or “transfer layers” on the pad (grayish patches), it may be pad material stuck to rotor – a sign of uneven pressure or a glazed pad. Oil or grease on the pad surface (from a leaking caliper or wheel bearing) severely cuts braking performance and requires immediate repair.

Aim to inspect your brake pads at least every tire rotation (every 6,000–8,000 miles) or every oil change. A common recommendation is every 10,000–12,000 miles, or at least annually.

If you do a lot of city driving, towing, or hilly/mountain driving, check the brakes more often. Heavy or frequent braking accelerates wear.

Even between scheduled checks, stay alert for the warning signs above (noises, vibration, warning lights). Any unusual brake behavior warrants an immediate inspection. Remember, “better safe than sorry” – inspecting pads is quick and inexpensive compared to fixing rotors or accidents.

If your inspection reveals significant wear on your brake pads, replacement is necessary. You are welcome to contact us at any time, no matter you are a brake shop or auto parts distributor.